Turin - April 2012

So on April 5th we returned to Turin in much warmer weather than 2010. We are staying in the Hotel Parco Europa that doesn't look like much on the outside but inside it is pure art deco and fabulous. I hope that they never renovate the place but keep it like it is. The hotel is located in a small village hilltop town of Cavoretto that has been completely enveloped by Metropolitan Turin yet has managed to keep its small village feel. It is also home to the Parco Europa that affords wonderful views of Turin and the distant Alps. Our first day we pay a return trip to the Turin Cinema Museum but also take in the street life much more than last time. The warmer weather has brought people out into the open piazza's along with street vendors and you get a real sense of the city life. The second day was a walking tour of two of Turin's famous locations. The first was the Madama Palazzo, a castle built over Roman remains in the city centre. The corner towers afford magnificent views of the city. But perhaps more stunning is the secluded church, Capella di Mercanti. Outside it is just some shabby doors opening on to the street but inside is a magnificent church with painted ceiling of world renown. On the third day we were booked on a steam train trip to the city of Bra, a journey of some 50 kms and to be pulled by a steam train at speed was a wonderful experience. The engine was Trenitalia Class 640 No 640-143 in superb condition. Bra is a beautiful city full of old buildings and parks and lots to explore. Surprise surprise Turin has a modern mall. On the fourth day we went to Langotta Mall and Galeria, Italian in style but recognisable as a mall by any North American tourist. more impressive was a large department store called Eataly and located across the road from the mall. This is an open plan store with lots of air and space and what can I say but wonderful food. The olives, oh the olives. On the fifth day we joined a school class for a walk to Parco Valentino where a lunch had been prepared in local Piedmontese style in the park restaurant. The sixth day we flew home

Lyon - April 2011

Finally I was able to return to France. The last time I was here was 1993 and the time before that I was 14 in school going on a school trip. Plus this was a trip to southern France where hints of a southern clime is in the air. Needless to say I was excited...very excited. We left England on Easter Sunday and were in Paris in an hour. We booked a hotel next to the Gare de Lyon with its huge station clock so that we would be ready for the train in the morning. The TGV was so exciting reminding me of the bullet trains in Japan. Soon we were in Lyon and had lunch and a visit to the beautiful Cathedral on the hill in dazzling sunlight. The first full day we drove about 40 kms to the ancient hilltop town of Perouges. This town has survived intact from the middle ages, it was essentially abandoned and fell into disrepair but was not torn down. Before the wreckers had a chance to move in the town was rescued and is now fully restored and full of restaurants and artisans. The second day we explored Lyon and spent a lot of time in the Parc de la Tete d'Or. The beautiful wrought iron gates open on to a beautiful park full of trees and flowers and a zoo. The last day was another tour of the city but concentrating on the Musee des Beaux Arts which was full of some wonderful paintings across the ages. Next day saw us return to Paris and we walked all along the Seine passing Notre Dame, under the Eiffel Tower, up to the Arc de Triomphe and down the Champs Elysees to the Louvre. Flew home the next day.

Barcelona - September 2010

Have you ever been to Barcelona. What a city, full of fascinating architecture and this all down to one man, Antoni Gaudi, who had a really strange view of architecture. I cannot describe the style and I cannot profess to like the style but it does capture the eye and for that I commend him to you. His great achievement is the Sagrada Familia, a colossal cathedral started in his lifetime and still being constructed today. We flew to Spain on Sunday September 26th 2010 and drove about 100 miles south to our hotel in Barcelona. In order to see the city we took a bus tour and were able to alight at whatever point we wanted. The first stop was Park Güell which is a park dedicated to the art of Gaudi and created by him. It contains the Gaudi House and also an amazing viewing platform from where the whole city is layed out in front of you. We also stopped at the Sagrada Familia and had lunch in a local cafe. I say 'in' actually it was out of the sidewalk but with the Sagrada as a backdrop it was fine. Our final stop was at the Olympic Stadium that dates to the 1992 Olympic games. The following day we visited 'old Barca' and toured the ancient medieval Barcelona Cathedral. We then headed down the coast to stay at a holiday resort in Cambrils. The following day was destined to be a tour of the countryside. We had the car so we wanted to make use of it so we headed inland to see the real Catalonia. We found a village,Mont Roig, in the classic hilltop style where I spotted a field of butterflies and spent some time photographing swallowtails. The village with its stone walls was cool even in the hot sun and we made our way through the old streets. We headed on up the valley to the hilltop monastery of Vilanova D'Escornalbou. The next day was spent in Taragona, much of the town is medieval but there is also a large Roman amphitheatre and roman ruins litter the landscape. The final day was a drive up through the country to arrive back at the airport in time to fly home. Spain is cool, very cool. I loved it and would love to go back. I have been spoiled by Catalonia but I am sure the whole country is wonderful and waiting for me to explore it further one day.

King Richard III Found in Leicester

The king found under a car park 

Breaking news, Richard will be buried in Leicester Cathedral. See article below.

Live on the day of official announcement - February 4th 2013

Richard III

As I write this article in early December 2012 many people in the country await with baited breath, the results of an autopsy on bones discovered in a Leicester Car Park. I have read a lot about King Richard III over the past decade or so. Books are great and I have visited Bosworth Field but to then live in the time when his body may be discovered is tantalizing indeed and I have been riveted to every piece of news.

I will not retell the story of Richard here, he is well documented elsewhere along with all the questions about whether or not he murdered his nephews, whether he was an evil monster or much maligned good king. This is not my purpose. Rather I want to bring history alive in a way only this kind of event can do. I am making a supposition at this point that the results are positive and I will amend in the future if it proves otherwise. Either way it is a fascinating read.

After Richard fell at Bosworth Field his body was thrown naked over a horse and paraded into Leicester. After his body was exhibited in the city to prove he was dead, he was said to have been buried behind the altar in Greyfriars church. Greyfriars was demolished during the reformation of the next century and for a long time the area was a garden till the 20th century when it became a car park. Piecing clues together from old maps, the suspected location of the altar where the body was supposed to lay was identified by archaeologists from the local university. Coupled with the discovery that a descendant of the king's sister was still living in Ontario Canada, the prospect of a DNA identification was enough to clinch funding to dig up Greyfriars Car Park.

The discovery was beyond encouraging, it was spectacular. The bones were exactly where the records said they were; behind the altar. The body had an arrowhead in the spine as was stated. There was a wound to the head that Richard was supposed to have suffered in the battle or shortly afterwards and there was the deformity to the spine that could be the source of the hunchback stigma so long proffered by all antagonists of the king. But the clincher is DNA, without that the body is just another corpse. Results were originally promised for December 2012 but have now been delayed to January 2013. Early signs are again encouraging, so the wait continues. We have waited 500 years so a few more weeks is not a long time.

If the results prove that the body is indeed Richard then thoughts will turn to a funeral. Indications are that it will be a state funeral and it will be in Leicester with his remains interred after in the cathedral. I intend to be there and will be able to add my own photos to this story.

Updates January 27th 2013

After several delays the news conference at Leicester University is scheduled for Feb 4th. Revealed will be DNA results, facial reconstruction conclusions, environmental evidence and radio carbon dating. Hopefully this will all result in a picture of the long dead king and we can move on to funeral arrangements.

Updates February 3rd 2013

This is getting incredibly exciting, the news conference is tomorrow night at 9 pm as part of a programme about the investigation and will be shown on Channel 4. I will provide a feedback on the conference this week.

Updates February 4th 2013

It's Him ! It's Him ! Confirmation has been given that the skeleton is the body of the king. DNA has proved a connection to living relatives. Carbon date is consistent with 1485. Examination of diet shows a high protein diet consistent with an important wealthy individual. Wounds match those described from the times. Spinal curvature matches description from the times. There are other clues as well which I will add at 9 pm tonight when the official documentary is broadcast. Funeral is being advertised as Leicester Cathedral in early 2014
Live 9.00pm GMT. Skeleton lifted from car park and placed in a cardboard box and covered in the flag of the crown. They were that certain to feel that this was appropriate thing to do. The first item turned out to be a disappointment. The arrowhead is just a Roman nail that was coincidentally lying by the spine. Lower arms have a gracile nature and pelvis has a larger sciatic hole that suggests a female skeleton however other features very male and historical documentation refer to Richards surprisingly good at fighting despite weak appearance. Marine fish diet confirmed high status individual but distorted the carbon 14 reading to earlier than expected. Radio Carbon 14 is depleted in the ocean environment because the water is not part of the biosphere and contains older carbon sources. Adjustment of this bias gave a date of 1450 to 1540. Pattern of injuries after death highly suggestive of opportunistic people taking a stab at the body and why would you do that to a foot soldier or the like. The comparison of the DNA of the descendant of Richard's sister with the skeletal DNA is complete and there is a match.

Updates February 6th 2013
A few interesting items have come to light. Apparently the window of opportunity to find Richard was closing. The skeleton was nearly lost when a Victorian toilet was built over the top and was only 4 inches above the level of the burial. Further development of the car park would almost certainly have devastated the grave. The feet had already gone as a result of disturbance when the body was discovered. Also the DNA gene that identified Richard is only transmitted by the female descendants. Male descendants can carry the gene but not pass it on. The last female descendant was without issue so a future match would not have been possible.
The fight for Richard's remains has started. While Leicester Cathedral is the obvious choice not everyone agrees. Both London and York have a claim and, of all places, Worksop lying half way between the two thinks it would be suitable! While most people would be happy with Leicester, York Council have written an open letter to the Queen in the hopes of securing the remains. I hope the most wonderful archaeological story of our times doesn't end up in a bitter battle of words to rival Bosworth field. Richard deserves better and more respect than that.

Updates February 7th 2013
News is coming thick and fast now as the fact that the bones are Richard sink in with everyone. Apparently he had a brummie accent. There is no evidence of a Northern Accent and the way he spelled 'will' was 'wule' which is closer to a midland accent. Molded head based on the skull profile provides a glimpse of quite a good looking man aged 30 not the hardened features of Tudor painters. Plantagenet's were known to be often tall, fair and handsome even good looking. Richard may have suffered from being dark and shorter of stature but there is no reason to believe he was denied the good looks of his gene pool. 

Updates February 12th 2013
It has been decided that Richard's bones will not become a sideshow thank goodness. The public will be able to pay their respects to a closed casket that preserves the dignity of the king. No news as to when this will be but considering the number of people who will attracted to the casket I expect sometime mid year. The remains are scheduled to be entombed in early 2014.

Updates February 22nd 2013
There is some evidence emerging from an old Welsh poem that the killer of Richard III was a Welsh Knight from Carmarthenshire. His name was Rhys ap Tomos and he now lies in a tomb in St Peter's church Carmarthen. Rhys was definitely at the battle on Henry's side and he was a good fighter. Henry VII knighted him on the battlefield. The poem says that Richard's head was cleaved and this is consistent with the wound found on the skull. The poem is in praise of Rhys ap Tomos. It is therefore possible that the poet is relating Rhys's killing of the king and then being knighted for his services. St Peter's is hoping that the renewed interest in Richard will generate new interest in their knight and the town of Carmarthen may also benefit from increased tourism. This is my hope too. Stories from 500 years ago are difficult to prove or disprove but this sounds like a good one and whether or not Rhys did the dastardly deed or was simply part of the melee where it all happened, doesn't really matter.

Updates March 22nd 2013

Richard III Skeletal Representation

Two interesting developments this month. Leicester Cathedral has indicated they are in favour of a stone plinth instead of a tomb. This is similar to that given recent kings and queens buried in St George Chapel Windsor. The Richard III society believes a proper tomb befitting a Plantagenet king would be more appropriate. So far the choices are just submissions so the decision is yet to be made. Also the expected knock on effect of the discovery of Richard's bones has manifested itself in a ten fold increase in the number of visitors to Leicester Cathedral. Tourists visit the car park and then want to see the likely future burial place at the cathedral, resulting in 500 to 1000 per day compared to the usual 50-100. Needless to say the cathedral is struggling to cope.

Updates March 27th 2013
The ''battle of the bones'' is heating up. Now the 16 living descendants of Richard III have clubbed together to put forward a judicial review. For those who don't know what that means, it is a process whereby the judiciary look at any kind of statute, law etc issued by legislative or executive means to make sure it is fair and just. In a democracy, it creates checks and balances to curb the excesses of an overwhelming majority. The descendants are saying that they should be consulted about what happens to Richards bones and more importantly, where he should be buried. Their preference is for York Minster. As a reminder, dear reader, I remain ambivalent and am simply reporting the events.

Updates July 19th 2013
One important issue has been resolved today. Richard III's body will be given a proper, above ground tomb not a plinth on the floor. This is something the the Richard III society has been campaigning for. Good or bad, Richard was the last plantagenet king and as such is worthy of a proper English gothic style tomb. Leicester cathedral has announced that this will go ahead to the cost of £1m probably raised by public subscription and donation. Count me in !!

Updates September 26th 2013
The online petition requesting a parliamentary debate on burying Richard at York has failed to garner sufficient votes. The final tally was 30000. A similar petition to bury Richard in Leicester closes in October but has only managed 25000 votes. This means the decision now lies with the judicial review that has been ordered for next month. I for one will be glad when this is all resolved and we all know where we are headed next May !!

Updates November 27th 2013
So I am afraid the Nov 26th judicial review came to nothing because it was adjourned to an unspecified date. The reason given is that Leicester Council had made a submission that it wanted to be part of the decision and required time to prepare. I am not sure what games, if any, are going on here but now it seems we have an indefinite wait. Meanwhile plans for the ceremony, tomb design are still going ahead but I suspect any thoughts of redesigning Leicester Cathedral to accommodate the tomb will now be on hold. I will add that this review is merely to decide whether the act of granting Leicester University the rights to exhume the body was lawful. It still may not finally decide where he will rest. Richard III could be in a box in a laboratory for a very long time to come while the second War of the Roses rages overhead.

Updates May 25th 2014

After over a year of nail biting the judicial review has ruled in favour of Richard being re-interred at Leicester Cathedral. While it was never a foregone conclusion I think there was a big collective sigh of relief from all the players involved in finding the skeleton. Possession is not nine tenths of the law in this case and the ruling could easily have gone the other way. In the end the judges ruled that there was no precedent that the university should have given wider consultation on the choice of burial sites and so the judges had therefore no cause to become involved. I am sure this came as a blow to the ‘plantagenet alliance’ who had sought to have him interred at York and the merits of the case, in particular Richard’s perceived last wishes, did require some review. But really Leicester held most of the cards, they researched the location, they made the application, they did all the work and it seems patience paid off. The judges declared there was ‘no duty to consult’. My hope now is that finally we can get a ceremony where all of us who have followed the story closely will have a chance to see the king ride to his final resting place at the heart of Leicester Cathedral.

Updates July 7th 2014

I recently drove from Wolverhampton to Tywyn and stopped for a drink at Cann Office Pub in Llangadfan. On the wall was a plaque dedicated to the life of the pub since it was built in 1310. In 1485 Henry Tudor journeyed through central Wales and bivouacked either side of Cann Office at Matawaran and Dolorddu. If they left Matawaran on August 10th morning and arrived at Dolorddu in the evening then they would have passed right by Cann Office and more than likely would have stopped for refreshments. A sobering thought as I sat supping my pint in the pub.

What happens next will be reported here as it happens so please check back later.

Turin - February 2010

By now I had been back in the UK nearly two years and it was time for an excursion. Fortunately in 2010 I started keeping a diary of events and so I have something to look back on to create this blog. We went to visit our daughter, Heather in February. The flight in itself was an experience, Ryanair, where no seats were assigned and you simply queued on the tarmac and raced for your seat. I am not sure I like this method but the price was certainly right. We were met by Mathieu and Heather at the airport and drove directly to our rooms where we met the owner and shown our rooms. It was by the Po river and was a beautiful apartment style building. That evening (Feb 1st) we went to Mat's sister Allessa for supper with her husband Luigi and their three children. The following morning we walked up by the Po River where there was a white egret fishing and met Heather near where she worked. We investigated downtown Turin and in the evening (Feb 2nd) we visited and had supper with Francesca. The following day we visited Valentino park  followed in the evening (Feb 3rd) by supper with Ludovica, the family for whom Heather worked. The next day was a visit to the Museum of Cinema housed in the most prominent structure in Turin and in the evening (Feb 4th) we went for a pizza in a traditional pizza restaurant. The following day we spent the morning at the Egyptian museum and then headed for the airport for the homeward flight.

Four Years Later

Cowslip - Time Slips Away

Oh my gosh its December 27th 2012. Where did four years go? I rediscovered this blog quite by accident when I was reviewing my Google Adsense account and it stated that a site was linked in. I had completely forgotten about this blog. So what has happened in four years. A lot, I have moved to the coast of Wales, joined a Welsh choir, traveled to Italy, France and Canada and made remarkable progress in my own sense of well being. So where to begin. Well in the spring we had a visit from Tomoya who comes from Japan. This was her first visit to England so we were able to show her many things and traveled the country to places such as Aberdyfi, Bath, London and she met many of our relatives. 2009 was also a year of changes as we finally settled in our new home on July 1st. It is a bungalow close to the sea yet is well protected from the elements by a 'groin' that makes the waves lose their power. It was a year settling in and discovering our new surroundings. I realise this is going to be a long blog if I try to it all in one shot so I think I will leave this as a brief re-introduction and cover the remaining years in future blogs. I also notice a lot of changes on Google  how these sites are all interconnected and I want to spend some time and figure it all out. So hello blog world and yes its nice to rediscover.